Collars make the difference… at Satoshi Date

One of my Japanese friends recommended me to have a look at clothing of Satoshi Date, and I found some noticeable neckline details at his creations.

Biography: Born in Tokyo, the Central Saint Martins graduate, now creative director of the fashion design label Satoshi Date now lives in London. He blends art and music into clothing with social and environmental themes. His clothing has been used in a popular Sony web commercials and featured at Selfridges in London. Not only has he participated in London Fashion Week but also in fashion shows and exhibitions across Europe. He has been acclaimed by the Japanese Top 10 Music Group ‘Ikimonogakari’. Most recently he has lectured at prestigious Kyoto Art University, Nara Women’s University and Toho Music University.

Altitude top with a huge cotton detail at the U-neckline:

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Danish Wakeel

The latest collection of Danish Wakeel, presented at London Fashion Week, February 2012, was catchy with unusual neckline designs. I like this unusual collar lapels. It looks very gentle and stylish, in particular with this kind of t-shirt. His previous collection can be found here.

I also like these spectacular neckline details which create a really high-fashion look.

Video from the show

Moschino necklines

I am impressed with Moschino necklines and I could include them in the list of the most splendid necklines among wearable necklines. Some cool collars and necklines can bogle the eye at catwalks but they are too unusual and uncomfortable to be applied to saleable garments. In contrast to them Moschino collars look splendid, some times unusual but wearable!

I am lucky to have large images this time, so we can see the necklines in details.

What I find so interesting about the neckline below is that it has a tape measure and thimbles attached to it along with beads. Big beads are mounted in golden thimbles. All these items are attached to the garment by black lace.

The next example also has thimbles and beads attached to the collarless neckline. I like the idea of applying sewing tools as decoration.

A host of golden pins and beads in white, red, and blue colours make this neckline to look really nice.

Obviously the way the pins are stitched to Moschino clothes looks recognisable.

A T-shirt with a multitude of golden hairgrips. Quite unusual but nice detail.

Next two cardigans are adorned with metal rings. Rings are stitched to the garments in different ways. They are stitched with thread to the off-white cardigan and with narrow tapes and press studs to the red cardigan.

Red cardigan below has a contrast black neckline with a red tape extended through the holes. If you look carefully you can see that right and left sides are asymmetrical. It would be interesting to know if it was designed on purpose or not. I like the flower detail of this cardigan. It looks recognisable and strikingly.

Round buttons with the letter M, symbols of peace and hearts, and buttons in shapes of flowers and hears stitched to the collar and pockets. A good example of a brand identity.

A huge chain stitched to the jacked in the shape of a collar at the left. And a huge chain with a leather tape as ornament at the neckline on the right. We can see a flower detail again, but this time it is a metallic flower.

One more chain at the neckline in this collection.

An absolutely different way of the chain stitching.

A huge bow stitched to the garment in an unusual way.

Black bow with the chain stitched to the neckline.

A stylish collar of the sailor uniform’s colour range.

A wide tape passed through the holes at the edges of the cardigan.

Fabric beads details at the neckline soften formal garments. These beads are semicircular and they are stitched to the clothes. The neckline is already adorned, so the wearer does not need any jewellery.

More beads at this collection.

An exemple of how neckline details can change the look of a simple top.

Images available from http://www.moschinoboutique.com/

Elsa Schiaparelli

I visited Victoria & Albert Museum last week and I bought the book “Twentieth-Century FASHION IN DETAIL” by Claire Wilcox and Valerie D.Mendes published by V&A in 2009.

I found there a hand knitted woollen jumper with a large butterfly bow in front, like a scarf round the neck, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927. I like this jumper very much. It is really a clever piece of work. Cuffs, collars and bows pictured below look like printed details but actually they are not printed.

Photo available from http://outervalues.blogspot.com/2010/11/elsa-schiaparelli.html

This is another one garment designed by Elsa Schiaparelli in collaboration with Jean Cocteau. “Cocteau produced two drawings for Schiaparelli which were translated into designs for a jacket and this evening coat for the Autumn 1937 collection. … The strong linear design of this coat can be read as two profile facing each other, and in the negative space, a vase of roses standing on a fluted column.”

Available from http://images.vam.ac.uk/item/O117953/evening-coat/

Evening ensemble designed by Schiaparelli in 1938-39, London. This bias-cut dress has a large contrast details in shapes of branches with leaves. (Available from http://images.vam.ac.uk/item/O75194/evening-ensemble/)

Moschino at Milan Womenswear A/W 11/12

I want to emphasize Moschino as the brand that provided the most exciting and absolutely recognisable necklines, in my opinion, at Milan Womenswear A/W 11/12.

First of all, I really like amazing collars made of beaded bears. The design of these collars resembles 33 cotton dolls collar made by Fumito Gunryu in 2008  https://fashioncollars.wordpress.com/?s=33+cotton+dolls

High wing-collared white shirts are presented as masculine elements of this collection. However, these masculine necklines look very feminine because of camellias pinned at the neck of white shirts instead of bow ties.

Nice replacement of masculine bow tie. I would like to wear one of these flowers.

Camellias in golden colour made of soft fabrics look especially feminine and exquisite.

Multiple flowers detail at the neck is another key detail of Moschino’s collection. It softens strict masculine appearance. A soft-spoken variant of camellia made of fur creates a formal look as you can see in the photo at right.

A feminine rose floral print even increases femininity of the details.

Pleated collar in this floral print looks extremely feminine and fetching. And the collar in black and white focuses attention on the face of the wearer and looks more severe than the previous example. These two collars have quite similar shapes but they make absolutely different look because of the colours.

Narrow grosgrain ribbon tie sash and classical bow tie as masculine elements. Once I read in a book that bow tie worn at a woman’s neck can symbolise homosexuality.

Just beautiful elegant collars.

Some collars or collarless ornaments at the neckline can replace jewellery. These two garments of jewel necklines are good examples of this statement.

The collar at reft looks like an untied bow tie. It looks slightly unusual but elegant. A crumpled collar in black extends the flower theme I think. Seems it looks like a host of rose petals.

The bow in golden colour with wide wings attached to the feminine collar looks really fetching. Another example, at right, looks more formal in spite of its quite bright golden colour.

Karen Millen’s necklines

Adjustable neck piece embellished with metallic beads and chains at new Karen Millen collection (at left) and striped knit cardigan with draped front (at right).

I find KAREN MILLEN attractive for me as this brand pays attention to details. I am interested in details as a brand identity and mainly in collars.

Pictures are taken from http://www.karenmillen.com/Racer-back-t-shirt/New-In/karenmillen/fcp-product/903000055484 and http://www.karenmillen.com/Striped-knitted-cardigan/New-In/karenmillen/fcp-product/903000055692 relatively.

Jewelled neckline